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Alex and Fran at breakfast at the Timberline Lodge, Banff, Alberta - Alex-Martin-Banff.jpg
Alex and Martin at the Timeberline Lodge, Banff, with Mt. Rundle behind us. - Alex-Martin-Johnson-Canyon.jpg
Alex and Martin at Johnson Canyon, Kootenay National Park, British Columbia. - Martin-Alex-Going-to-the-Su.jpg
Martin and Alex, Going-to-the-Sun Road, Glacier National Park, Montana. - Alex-Fran-Going-to-the-Sun.jpg
Alex and Fran, Going-to-the-Sun Road, Glacier National Park. - Going-to-the-Sun.jpg
Panoramic view from Going-to-the-Sun Road, Glacier National Park - Martin-Deadwood-Falls.jpg
Martin at Deadwood Falls, Glacier National Park - Alex-bridge.jpg
Alex on the trail to Gunsight Lake, Glacier National Park - Mirror-Pond.jpg
View from the trail to Gunsight Lake, Glacier National Park. On the left is Mt. Jackson and on the right is Fusillade Mountain. - Alex-Martin-Fran-Gunsight-C.jpg
Alex, Martin and Fran at the campsite at Gunsight Lake, Glacier National Park. We spent a couple of nights here. - Gunsight-Lake.jpg
Gunsight Lake and Gunsight Notch, Glacier National Park. - Martin-Jackson-Summit.jpg
Martin scrambled up Mt. Jackson while Fran and Alex went for a hike to Gunsight Notch. Here's Martin at the summit. It was a nice view but the mountain isn't much more than a giant pile of loose scree that makes for very tedious climbing. - Martin-Gunsight-Lake.jpg
Martin rinsing off in Gunsight Lake. The lake wasn't much warmer than the patch of snow behind it. - Fran-Alex-Mt-Jackson.jpg
Fran and Alex on the trail back from Gunsight Lake. - Rick-Alex-Kalispell.jpg
Rick and Alex in Kalispell, Montana - Image-002.jpg
Alex and Rick – Christmas Day, 2008 - Image-003.jpg
Hannah and David in Somerset West – January 2009 - Image-006.jpg
Alex and Rick – Christmas dinner, 2008 - Image-010_001.jpg
Left to right: Simon, Kim Hough, Bram, Olive, Hannah, David, Jan Hough and Ismo at Avontuur, near Stellenbosch – January 2009 - Image-011.jpg
Jan, Bram, Ismo and Olive at Avontuur – January 2009 - Image-013.jpg
Hannah and David at Avontuur – January 2009 - Image-014.jpg
Fran and Alex – Christmas dinner, 2008 - Image-015.jpg
Olive at Simon's Town – January 2009 - Image-024.jpg
Rick at Vail – January 2009 - Broadway-3.jpg
Martin climbing across Broadway - Broadway-5.jpg
Martin climbing across Broadway - Dallas-Divide.jpg
Panoramic view of Mt. Sneffels and the Dallas Divide between Telluride and Ouray (click on the arrows at the bottom of the photo to scroll left or right) - Image-013.jpg
Alex at Arapahoe Basin - Image-019.jpg
The East face of Mt. Alice. We went up the right-hand skyline (the "Hourglass Ridge"). - Image-022.jpg
Gordon Laurens at Chasm View, on the way to climb the Notch Couloir on Longs Peak. - Image-023.jpg
View from Lion Lake, near Mt. Alice - Image-029.jpg
Gordon Laurens crossing a frozen Chasm Lake. Our route took us up Lamb's Slide (snow gully that's hidden from view behind a rock buttress), across Broadway (snow-covered ledge in the upper center) and up into the Notch Couloir (snow-filled gully leading to the notch in the skyline). - Image-034.jpg
Gordon leading up into the Notch Couloir. We were hoping there would be some good ice up here, but all we found was a nasty mix of unconsolidated snow on top of bare rock. - Image-035.jpg
Bill Wright on the summit of Mt. Alice - Image-038.jpg
Bill Wright on the summit of Mt. Alice; Chief's Head, Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker in the background - Image-050.jpg
Rick at Telluride - Image-053.jpg
At the top of Palmyra Peak, Telluride. It's an hour-long hike with 1,500' of elevation gain to get to this point, but the reward is a snow-filled couloir that drops straight from the summit. - Image-062.jpg
Rick at Telluride; Mt. Wilson in the background - Image-068.jpg
Rick at Telluride - Image-074.jpg
Rick at Telluride - Image-089.jpg
Martin and Rick at Silverton - Image-101.jpg
Skiing at Silverton - IMG_1078.jpg
Early in the morning on the way to Mt. Alice. We were expecting a long day – it's a 20-mile round trip and 5,000' of elevation gain from the winter trailhead. - IMG_1096.jpg
The Hourglass Ridge on Mt. Alice. There's a bit of third-class scrambling where the ridge narrows in the center of the photo. - IMG_1126.jpg
Martin approaching the summit of Mt. Alice; McHenry's Peak in the background - Notch_Martin_001.jpg
Martin in the Notch Couloir, with Chasm Lake far below. This is the last photo from this trip. We made up to the Notch, but it was getting late, so we skipped the summit and instead dropped down the other side of the Notch and headed back by way of Clark's Arrow and The Loft. We got back to the car at 8:30pm after a 14-hour day. - Palmyra_Martin.jpg
Martin having made it down safely from the summit of Palmrya Peak, Telluride - step_Across_2.jpg
Martin climbing across Broadway - Image_001.jpg
Kurt and Chris on the way to Apache Peak. - Image_006.jpg
Navajo, Apache and Shoshoni Peaks as seen from Lake Isabelle. The Apache Couloir is the hour-glass shaped snowfield in the upper center. - Image_009.jpg
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Chris in front of Shoshoni Peak. - Image_021.jpg
Chris putting on his crampons at the base of the Apache Couloir. In the background is Navajo Peak; if you look carefully you can see some skiers making their way up the snowfield below Navajo. - Image_024.jpg
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Kurt and Chris preparing for the ski down Apache; Navajo Peak in the background. - Image_033.jpg
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Kurt in front of the east face of James Peak. “Shooting Star” is the left-leaning snow gully that ends right at the summit. - Image-007.jpg
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The east face of James Peak. If you look carefully you can see two climbers making their way up the snow in the center. - Image-013.jpg
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That evening Rick and I joined Fran and Alex in Frisco. Here’s Rick and Buffalo Mountain as seen from the condo we rented. - Image_035.jpg
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Martin and Kurt on the snowfield at Glacier Basin. - 100_0634.jpg
Martin and Kurt negotiating crevasses on the Winthrop Glacier. - 100_0655.jpg
Martin leading the way on the Carbon Glacier. It can be a challenge to find a route around the crevasses, but fortunately another group had been up there a few days earlier and we were able to follow the remnants of their footprints. - 100_0695.jpg
Another view of our tent at Thumb Rock. - 100_0700.jpg
Martin approaching the “Black Pyramid” on the upper ridge, with the Carbon Glacier far below. - 100_0706.jpg
Martin climbing up snow slopes on the upper ridge. - 100_0718.jpg
Martin leading up to the start of the traverse beneath the seracs. - 100_0719.jpg
Kurt and me following Chris above the bergschrund, with the Carbon Glacier many thousands of feet below. From here we had one last pitch of technical climbing, which looked like it would be a short, easy ice bulge. I grabbed a few ice-screws and started leading, but I should have remembered that “ice is always steeper than it looks” – the angle turned out to be 60-65 degrees, and it was over a full rope-length of climbing before I reached easier-angled snow below the summit. - Google-Earth.jpg
Google Earth image of Mt. Rainier. The approach to the Liberty Ridge starts at the White River trailhead (4,300’), off to the left of this image. We hiked up the Glacier Basin trail to St. Elmo’s Pass (7,400’), dropped down and crossed the Winthrop Glacier to the lower Curtis Ridge, where we made our first night’s camp at about 7,000’. From there we headed to the Carbon Glacier and up to the start of the Liberty Ridge. There’s an exposed bivouac site half-way up the ridge at Thumb Rock (10,300’), where we spent the second night. The climb ends at Liberty Cap (14,112’), from where we descended the Emmons Glacier to spend a night at Camp Schurman (9,500’). On the fourth day we descended the Inter Glacier and hiked out via the Glacier Basin trail. - IMG_4234.jpg
Unfortunately much of the snow cover had melted from the lower ridge, and underneath the snow the ridge consists of horribly loose volcanic rubble. This nasty-looking slope is what we had to climb up and across in order to gain the ridge crest. We stood here for a few minutes contemplating the debris that had evidently fallen from above, then unroped and crossed one by one, moving as quickly as we could. I was halfway across when Chris shouted out and I looked up to see beach-ball sized rocks tumbling down towards me. I jumped out of the way as fast as I could, but not quite fast enough to avoid some glancing blows. Fortunately the only damage was a couple of minor bruises and a broken wrist-watch strap. - IMG_4264.jpg
To the left of the Liberty Ridge is the Willis Wall, which is periodically swept by collapsing seracs. Fortunately the Liberty Ridge is out of the way of such danger. - IMG_4270.jpg
Above the “Black Pyramid” much of the snow cover gave way to bare glacial ice, so we took out the rope and started placing ice-screws. Here’s Martin leading the way. - IMG_4274.jpg
This overhanging bergschrund was the final obstacle between us and the summit. Getting past here involved a traverse beneath seracs to reach the ice ramp glistening in the sun in the center of the photo, then a final pitch up the ice in the upper-right. You can see the footprints of climbers that had been here ahead of us. - IMG_4279.jpg
Martin placing an ice-screw as he traverses beneath the seracs. - IMG_4286.jpg
Martin and Chris at the summit of Liberty Cap. About a mile away in the background is Rainier’s main summit, Columbia Crest (14,410’). Under good conditions it’s just an easy walk to get there, but it was now quite late and a fierce wind was blowing, so we decided to bypass the main summit and descend to Camp Schurman. - IMG_4304.jpg
Chris and me in our tent at Emmons Flats the following morning. I’m looking very cheerful despite having slept only a few hours – the wind had picked up speed and the tent had flapped noisily all night long. - IMG_4331.jpg
Looking back at the mountain from the Glacier Basin trail. - IMG_6348.jpg
Kurt and Chris at the White River parking lot. - IMG_6355.jpg
Kurt and Chris toiling up the slopes above Glacier Basin on the way to St. Elmo’s Pass. It was overcast for much of the day, but there wasn’t any snow or rain. - IMG_6368.jpg
At St. Elmo’s Pass the clouds parted for a few minutes to give us a glimpse of the summit. - IMG_6381.jpg
Kurt and Chris at our first night’s camp, a pleasant spot on the broad lower shoulder of the Curtis Ridge. - IMG_6382.jpg
The sky cleared during the night and we rose the next morning to be greeted by our first view of the Liberty Ridge. - IMG_6385.jpg
Kurt and Chris at the edge of the Curtis Ridge, about to descend to the Carbon Glacier. The Liberty Ridge is the obvious line in the center of this photo. Thumb Rock is situated half-way up, where the bare rock of the lower ridge gives way to snow and ice (if you look carefully you can see the shadow cast by Thumb Rock). - IMG_6397.jpg
Chris negotiating a snow-bridge on the Carbon Glacier. - IMG_6404.jpg
Kurt and Chris at Thumb Rock. Luckily someone else had dug out a tent platform in the snow, because there wasn’t much level ground here. - IMG_6409.jpg
Chris setting out the following morning. Chris is an avid ski-mountaineer and did an excellent job of kicking steps for us. With the benefit of hindsight it would have been better to have started a couple of hours earlier, but we’d arrived at Thumb Rock quite late the previous evening and we wanted to have a decent night’s rest before the 4,000’ climb to the summit. - IMG_6433.jpg
Kurt approaching the “Black Pyramid”, with the Curtis Ridge behind him. - IMG_6436.jpg
Chris taking a break at one of the few level spots that we encountered. - IMG_6441.jpg
Chris and Kurt at the summit of Liberty Cap (14,112’) after 13 hours of climbing. Kurt had become quite dehydrated and was now moving quite slowly. - IMG_6447.jpg
Chris and Kurt starting on the descent, with Mt. St. Helen’s on the horizon. Kurt was very tired and it was close to midnight before we reached the tent sites at Emmons Flats above Camp Schurman. (It was so late that other climbers were starting to wake up and prepare for the next day’s climb up the Emmons Glacier.) Fortunately the Emmons Glacier descent is much easier than the Liberty Ridge and there was a good track for us to follow. - IMG_6456.jpg
Martin, Kurt and Chris at Emmons Flats. The rangers’ shelter at Camp Schurman is just visible on the right-hand side of the photo. - IMG_6460.jpg
One of the rules of climbing the Liberty Ridge is that literally everything has to be carried up and over the summit. The park rangers provide one with “blue bags” for this purpose. Fortunately there’s a disposal bin at Camp Schurman where one can lighten one’s pack. - IMG_6477.jpg
Chris and some other climbers descending the Inter Glacier below Camp Schurman. This is perfect bum-slide terrain and descent is quite rapid. - IMG_6498.jpg
Back at the parking lot at White River. I’d gotten quite sunburnt on our long summit day and was now turning a bright lobster red. - IMG_6503.jpg
A final view of Mt. Rainier as seen from our flight from Seattle back to Denver. - IMG_6481_001.jpg
Martin back at tree-line at Glacier Basin. Liberty Cap is just visible in the upper center. - IMG_2461.jpg
Aerial view of Mt. Athabasca (3,491m/11,453’) as seen from the flight to the Clemenceau Icefield. - IMG_2502.jpg
Me climbing up Tusk’s south ridge. It was mostly easy scrambling on loose rock with occasional detours onto the snow, with a few 5th-class moves where the ridge steepens. - IMG_2521.jpg
Mike at the summit of Tusk Peak, with Mt. Clemenceau in the background. It was barely than 24 hours since I’d left the office in Denver. - IMG_2551.jpg
The view from our tent on Tusk Glacier. I’d brought a “bear vault” to keep our food safe from marauding wildlife, but up here we didn’t see another living thing, not even an insect. - IMG_2581.jpg
Me leading up to Clemenceau’s west ridge. The weather had been very warm and the snow bridges were in poor condition – one of my legs punched through when crossing the bergschrund. - IMG_2659.jpg
On the way down we were able to avoid some of the snow-bridges on the Tiger Glacier by downclimbing the loose rock of Clemenceau’s west ridge. Eventually the ridge became too steep to downclimb easily, so we regained the Tiger Glacier and our ascent route. There was a lot of tedious zig-zagging back and forth to get around the crevasses. - IMG_2730.jpg
Once again it was a warm day and by early afternoon the snow-bridges had become very soft. This is a hidden crevasse that I plunged into with both feet, having done the very same thing just a few minutes earlier. - IMG_6863.jpg
Aerial view of Mt. Alberta (3,619m/11,873’), the “hardest, loosest and scariest of all the 11,000ers” (according to Bill Corbett’s guidebook), and still on Mike’s to-do list. - IMG_6872.jpg
Aerial view of Mt. Clemenceau (3,658/12,001’). It’s not clear how the surveyors back in the 1920s arrived at that exact height. - IMG_6877.jpg
Our landing spot at 7,400’ on the Tusk Glacier between Mt. Clemenceau (in the background) and Tusk. This small, level patch of gravel was the only such spot for miles around – anywhere else and we’d have been camping on bare ice or slush. - IMG_6885.jpg
It was only 8:30am when we landed, so we decided to make the most of the day and head up Tusk Peak. Here’s Mike on the bare lower glacier. - IMG_6889.jpg
Mike climbing up a short, steep snow gully that leads to Tusk’s south ridge. - IMG_6896.jpg
Our next objective was Mt. Clemenceau. We rose at 3:30am and by sunrise we were high up on the Tiger Glacier on Clemenceau’s west face. Here’s Mike with Tusk Peak behind him. The guidebook describes this as a “routine glacier ascent”, but it’s become quite challenging in recent years due to glacial recession, and some parties have been unable to find a way around the crevasses. - IMG_6899.jpg
Mike at the summit of Clemenceau. The summit ridge is heavily corniced and there’s a steep drop down the other side. Neither of us was interested in spending too much time up here. - IMG_6903.jpg
Mike descending the summit ridge on Clemenceau. We were careful to keep a healthy distance from the edge of the ridge. - IMG_6913.jpg
Mike back on the Tusk Glacier on the way back to camp. In the backgound is Tusk Peak; our climb has taken up us the glacier in the middle and back left up the skyline ridge. - IMG_6915.jpg
Mike rehydrating back at camp on the Tusk Glacier after almost 14 hours of climbing. - IMG_6924.jpg
I felt badly in need of a rest day, but the forecast was for one more day of good weather before conditions deteriorated, so we decided to set out for the long hike across the Clemenceau glacier to the base of Tsar Mountain. Mike thought we could accomplish this in one day – I later learnt that most other parties spread this out over two or even three days. Here’s Mike crossing the Duplicate Glacier, with Mt. Shackleton in the distance. - IMG_6930.jpg
Mike on the Clemenceau Glacier, with Tusk Peak and Mt. Clemenceau behind him. Crossing this glacier is a monotonous business – it’s an enormous flat expanse that goes on for miles and miles, and there’s almost nothing to gauge one’s progress. - IMG_6935.jpg
By later afternoon was had it down the Shackleton Glacier on the far side of the icefield. Unfortunately, just a few minutes after regaining easy ground at the toe of the glacier, Mike slipped on a wet rock and twisted his ankle. He tried to hobble on, but it was soon apparent that he wasn’t in any shape to do any more climbing, and when we came across this flat expanse of gravel we set up camp. Here’s Mike calling the helicopter company on satellite phone the following morning to let them know we needed a ride out of here. - IMG_6939.jpg
This is me a short distance from our camp. In the background is the toe of the Tsar Glacier and the north ridge of Tsar Mountain, the peak we’d hoped to climb. By now the weather was starting to deteriorate. - IMG_6943.jpg
The helicopter coming in to collect us, and a premature end to our trip. Mike’s enthusiasm for climbing the 11,000ers hasn’t diminished, however, and I’m sure I’ll be back here for another attempt on Tsar in a year or two. - Tusk_Panorama.jpg
Panoramic view of Mt. Shackleton and surrounding peaks from Tusk’s south ridge. The air was hazy throughout our trip because of forest fires in BC. - IMG_6839.jpg
Mike and me at the Cline River Heliport, AB, about 40km east of Saskatchewan Crossing on the Thompson Highway. Mike wastes no time on these trips – he picked me up at Edmonton airport at 6pm the previous evening and we drove straight to the heliport, where we slept on the ground for a few hours before getting up at dawn to be ready for a 7am helicopter ride. - IMG_6595.JPG
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After Crested Butte we drove on to Durango, where Fran and Alex spent a couple of days at a nearby B&B while Rick and I took the steam train to go scrambling in the San Juan mountains. Here’s where the train dropped us off – it isn’t strictly necessary to take the train to get here, but it saves a day of hiking and it’s more interesting than driving. - IMG_6638.JPG
Arrow Peak (13,803’) (in the centre) and Vestal Peak (13,664’) (just peeking out to the left of Arrow). Our goal was the “Wham” Ridge on Vestal Peak. - IMG_6644.jpg
Rick crossing Elk Creek on the way to Vestal Basin. - IMG_6659.JPG
Rick approaching Vestal Basin, with Arrow Peak in the background. - IMG_6674.JPG
Rick on the “Wham” Ridge on Vestal Peak. This is a great climb on excellent quartzite. It’s mostly a 4th-class scramble with a few 5th-class moves. - IMG_6679.JPG
Rick higher up on the “Wham” Ridge on Vestal Peak. - IMG_6689.JPG
Rick and Martin on the summit of Vestal Peak. In the background is Mt. Eoulus and Pigeon Peak. We had amazing weather throughout this trip – none of the summertime afternoon thunderstorms that one usually gets in the Colorado mountains. - IMG_6736.JPG
The Trinities (left) and Vestal Peak (right) from Vestal Basin. The “Wham” Ridge is the dividing line between light and shade on Vestal. - IMG_6758.JPG
Back at the train stop at Elk Park. - IMG_6767.JPG
Fran at Willowtail Springs - IMG_6790.jpg
Crestone Needle (14,197’) in the Sangre de Cristo mountains. Kurt Mensch and I climbed the Ellingwood Ledges, which is the right skyline. This was our third attempt on this route. The climbing isn’t very difficult (mostly 3rd and 4th class, with a couple of mid 5th-class pitches) but every time I’ve been in this area the weather’s been uncooperative. - IMG_6804.jpg
Kurt on the first pitch of the Ellingwood Ledges. - IMG_6813.jpg
Kurt near the summit of Crestone Needle, with the mist starting to swirl around us. - IMG_6825.jpg
Descending from the Crestone Needle. Fortunately it didn’t rain. On a previous trip I’d climbed up the descent route when it was wet, which made for lots of scary, slippery scrambling. - IMG_6952.jpg
Rick on the way to climb The Matron, one of the Flatirons near Boulder. - IMG_6953.jpg
Rick on the first pitch of The Matron’s north face (5.6) - IMG_6959.jpg
Rick near the summit of The Matron. - IMG_6963.jpg
Rick rappelling from The Matron - IMG_6965.jpg
Gordon Laurens next to Chasm Lake (Longs Peak), on our way to climb the Red Wall. - IMG_6969.jpg
Looking back at Chasm Lake. - IMG_6971.jpg
Gordon at the top of the Red Wall. - IMG_6994.jpg
Longs Peak again, this time with Rick. We had a pleasant scramble up The Loft and Clark’s Arrow. - IMG_6997.jpg
Rick descending the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak. - IMG_6999.jpg
Another view of Rick descending the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak. - IMG_7003.jpg
An unnamed peak near Little Gem Lake on the approach to Snowmass Mountain. - IMG_7007.jpg
Kurt Mensch on the southwest (“S”) ridge of Snowmass Mountain. - IMG_7012.jpg
Kurt at the summit of Snowmass Mountain (14,092’) - IMG_7013.jpg
Kurt on the knife-edge traverse between Snowmass Mountain and Hagerman Peak. For the most part this is straightforward scrambling, but there’s one very exposed section of low 5th-class climbing where we’d have been very happy to have brought a rope. - IMG_7021.jpg
Kurt on the knife-edge traverse between Snowmass Mountain and Hagerman Peak. - IMG_7023.jpg
Kurt at the summit of Hagerman Peak (13,841’) - IMG_7025.jpg
The “Crystal Mill”, a much-photographed spot on the Crystal River that Kurt and I passed on the way back from climbing Snowmass Mountain. The building actually housed an air compressor, not a mill, but I guess there wouldn’t be as many tourists if they called it the “Crystal Compressor Station”. - P7130216.JPG
Rick and Alex at the condo we rented in Crested Butte. - P7140230.jpg
These next few photos are from a day hike to Green Lake, near Crested Butte. - P7140237.JPG
If you look very carefully you can see Martin and Alex as well as Rick. - P7140243.jpg
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Rick and Alex next to a partly-frozen Green Lake (this was on July 14). - P7170319.jpg
Alex at Willowtail Springs, the B&B near Durango - P7180342.JPG
Back in Durango, where Rick and I met up with Fran and Alex. - P7190356.JPG
Sunrise over the pond at Willowtail Springs - Red-Wall-pitch-5-a.jpg
Martin following the Red Wall. Maybe we were out of shape, but it felt a lot harder than its grade (supposedly 5.10a). On the last two pitches I was reduced to shamelessly pulling up on gear at all the crux moves. - Red-Wall-pitch1-c.jpg
Martin leading the “easy” first pitch of the Red Wall. - Mt-Owen-Panorama.jpg
While Fran, Rick and Alex were relaxing next to Green Lake I scrambled up nearby Mt. Owen (13,058’). This is a panoramic view from the top. - Vestal-Peak-Panorama.jpg
Panoramic view of the San Juan mountains looking east and south from the summit of Vestal Peak. Some of the peaks in this photo are the Trinities, Storm King, Mt. Silex, Jagged Mountain, Windom Peak, Sunlight Peak, Mt. Eolus, the Turret Needles, and Pigeon Peak.